Sugga #443
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Re: Sugga #443
You're talking about the differential if I got it right (?)
Haven't touched that, it's like it came from the factory I guess...
Haven't touched that, it's like it came from the factory I guess...
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Re: Sugga #443
BRAKES
Now this is important !
Get it right and it will be bulletproof.
BRAKE DRUMS
I had mines machined / rectified.
On the other hand, ALTYCO stockes about 100 NOS pcs (!) - it might be better to purchase new if shipping costs are afordable....
BRAKE SHOES
I had them cleaned and relined with new (modern) friction material. Bonded (glued) not riveted.
HAND BRAKE
Again, cleaned, relined. Riveted in this case.
MASTER CYLINDER
Rebuild, sleeved in stainless, new seals including dust seals, by PastParts UK (http://www.pastparts.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
Do not try this at home !!!
Just send them the part as is, and be amazed what you'll get back !
WHEEL CYLINDERS
Same by Pastparts UK
My opinion is, although a costly operation, it is worth sleeving in stainless. This will give you sort of lifetime guarantee of the part, plus a trustworthy brake sistem. Other option is regular servicing. Not my cup of tea. I prefer do and forget.
BRAKE HOSES
New from ALTYCO.
BRAKE LINES
I used cunifer pipe (not copper) and homemade them all. New nipples (ebay). Flare tool (ebay).
BRAKE FLUID
DOT 5.1 - because it is hydrophobic.
One think I thought of is mounting a remote servo. It seams easy to fit but I've no ideea of how much vacuum is needed and if engine provides enough. My guess it does.
Now this is important !
Get it right and it will be bulletproof.
BRAKE DRUMS
I had mines machined / rectified.
On the other hand, ALTYCO stockes about 100 NOS pcs (!) - it might be better to purchase new if shipping costs are afordable....
BRAKE SHOES
I had them cleaned and relined with new (modern) friction material. Bonded (glued) not riveted.
HAND BRAKE
Again, cleaned, relined. Riveted in this case.
MASTER CYLINDER
Rebuild, sleeved in stainless, new seals including dust seals, by PastParts UK (http://www.pastparts.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
Do not try this at home !!!
Just send them the part as is, and be amazed what you'll get back !
WHEEL CYLINDERS
Same by Pastparts UK
BRAKE HOSES
New from ALTYCO.
BRAKE LINES
I used cunifer pipe (not copper) and homemade them all. New nipples (ebay). Flare tool (ebay).
BRAKE FLUID
DOT 5.1 - because it is hydrophobic.
One think I thought of is mounting a remote servo. It seams easy to fit but I've no ideea of how much vacuum is needed and if engine provides enough. My guess it does.
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- Registriert: Mi 03 Jan, 2007 16:29
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Sugga #443
BRAKES
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Re: Sugga #443
RIMS / TYRES / CHASSIS PARTS
Rims and all chassis parts, bits and pieces - all got sandblasted and painted.
Tyres were rock hard and need replacement.
My choice went to Michelin XZL 9.00 R16 which is a sort of equivalent to 9.00 16 (but not quite).
These are actually 255 100 R16 meaning exactly 10.00 R16, thus an inch larger in width and 2 inches in diameter. These look fantastic on the vehicle !
And perform well too ! Especially in mud. Snow is ok, but I've seen better.
Interesting feature is they weight 40 kg/pcs !!! Tubes are 2 kg/pcs !
I bought 4 pcs new from an ex-mod parts seller in UK (MOD=ministery of defence) but can't remember contact/link. If remember well cost was 130 euro/pcs + shipping. A bargain, one could say - remember to haggle when you buy from UK, especially when paying cash without receipt. It works.
Unfortunatelly, these tyres do not have the Swedish Army 3 crowns labell
.
Rims and all chassis parts, bits and pieces - all got sandblasted and painted.
Tyres were rock hard and need replacement.
My choice went to Michelin XZL 9.00 R16 which is a sort of equivalent to 9.00 16 (but not quite).
These are actually 255 100 R16 meaning exactly 10.00 R16, thus an inch larger in width and 2 inches in diameter. These look fantastic on the vehicle !
And perform well too ! Especially in mud. Snow is ok, but I've seen better.
Interesting feature is they weight 40 kg/pcs !!! Tubes are 2 kg/pcs !
I bought 4 pcs new from an ex-mod parts seller in UK (MOD=ministery of defence) but can't remember contact/link. If remember well cost was 130 euro/pcs + shipping. A bargain, one could say - remember to haggle when you buy from UK, especially when paying cash without receipt. It works.
Unfortunatelly, these tyres do not have the Swedish Army 3 crowns labell
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- Registriert: Mi 03 Jan, 2007 16:29
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Re: Sugga #443
ENGINE
First glimpse.
Engine was a non-runner. Previous owner had a problem with a broken manifold. We all know this part is made of a very poor cast iron and is subject to rust. But it was turning and had oil in it.
Through ALTYCO I managed to purchase a 'used but good' manifold, and, following a fast replacement, we fired up the engine !!!
This is how it looked like when taken off the car.
First glimpse.
Engine was a non-runner. Previous owner had a problem with a broken manifold. We all know this part is made of a very poor cast iron and is subject to rust. But it was turning and had oil in it.
Through ALTYCO I managed to purchase a 'used but good' manifold, and, following a fast replacement, we fired up the engine !!!
This is how it looked like when taken off the car.
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- Beiträge: 230
- Registriert: Mi 03 Jan, 2007 16:29
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Re: Sugga #443
ENGINE
So, where to start to ? Obviously, brake apart, make a list of parts, logistics, repair, rebuild. It did not look very shiny at this point, though...
Manifold. Solved.
Broken engine rods roller bearing. made of unobtainble. Problem.
Engine wear. To be honed and sleeved. Not in stainless, no...
Piston rings - worn out. Not to be found.
Dynamo. Missing. Was replaced by previous owner by an alternator.
Water pump. Repaired at one time. Not with original parts, poor quality. To be overhauled.
Conclusions - let's stay optimistic. We can do this !
Looks like the little man on the bottom of the oil bath is saluting us !
Have you noticed it ?
So, where to start to ? Obviously, brake apart, make a list of parts, logistics, repair, rebuild. It did not look very shiny at this point, though...
Manifold. Solved.
Broken engine rods roller bearing. made of unobtainble. Problem.
Engine wear. To be honed and sleeved. Not in stainless, no...
Piston rings - worn out. Not to be found.
Dynamo. Missing. Was replaced by previous owner by an alternator.
Water pump. Repaired at one time. Not with original parts, poor quality. To be overhauled.
Conclusions - let's stay optimistic. We can do this !
Looks like the little man on the bottom of the oil bath is saluting us !
Have you noticed it ?
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- Beiträge: 230
- Registriert: Mi 03 Jan, 2007 16:29
- Fahrzeug 1:
Re: Sugga #443
ENGINE
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- costin moga
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- Beiträge: 230
- Registriert: Mi 03 Jan, 2007 16:29
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Re: Sugga #443
ENGINE
Stripping & Cleaning
Not much to comment on this operation.
Stripping bit by bit, lots of photos.
Cleaning with diesel and splash with water. And very fast sweep and dry as cast iron starts rusting in less than 30 min.
Stripping & Cleaning
Not much to comment on this operation.
Stripping bit by bit, lots of photos.
Cleaning with diesel and splash with water. And very fast sweep and dry as cast iron starts rusting in less than 30 min.
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- costin moga
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- Beiträge: 230
- Registriert: Mi 03 Jan, 2007 16:29
- Fahrzeug 1:
Re: Sugga #443
ENGINE
Stripping & Cleaning
Stripping & Cleaning
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- costin moga
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- Beiträge: 230
- Registriert: Mi 03 Jan, 2007 16:29
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Re: Sugga #443
ENGINE
SLEEVING
Decision was swift: engine wear was significant, larger pistons (repair #1) were unavailable, therefore sleeving was needed in order to reuse original pistons.
Something had to be done with the engine rod bearings and cranckshaft too.
Until then - sleeving:
Pistons were maked before taking them out and engine carried to the turner. He honed the engine block, inserted the cylnder sleeves, measured each piston, and acording to their size added 0.5mm to cylinder diameter.
Better than new...
Note the last image showing the side of the engine - you can see the cylinders which had a hole on one side. Now it's blocked by the cylinder sleeve. Our guess it is a technological hole, it had no use, beeing below bottom piston travel. Let me know if you have a different opinion.
SLEEVING
Decision was swift: engine wear was significant, larger pistons (repair #1) were unavailable, therefore sleeving was needed in order to reuse original pistons.
Something had to be done with the engine rod bearings and cranckshaft too.
Until then - sleeving:
Pistons were maked before taking them out and engine carried to the turner. He honed the engine block, inserted the cylnder sleeves, measured each piston, and acording to their size added 0.5mm to cylinder diameter.
Better than new...
Note the last image showing the side of the engine - you can see the cylinders which had a hole on one side. Now it's blocked by the cylinder sleeve. Our guess it is a technological hole, it had no use, beeing below bottom piston travel. Let me know if you have a different opinion.
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